The Ultimate UTMB Course Recce Support Crew Guide (2026)
- Max Stuart
- 2 hours ago
- 10 min read
UTMB Recce Support Crew Guide: Everything You Need to Know Travelling With A Campervan
Every summer, thousands of runners travel to Chamonix to recce sections of the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) course. There are countless articles explaining the best trails, the toughest climbs and the key checkpoints.
But what about the people behind the wheel?
Planning Your UTMB Recce by Campervan
After spending five days driving the entire route while friends (Morgan and Simon) and Sarah ran each stage, it was pointed out (thanks Rachel) that there is very little information aimed at support crews travelling by car or campervan. I literaly spent hours on this when I could have used that time to enjoy the surroundings. When planning your UTMB recce by campervan, don't waste as much time as I did!
Questions you might be thinking could include:
Where do you stay overnight?
Which route should you drive between checkpoints?
Where can you refill fresh water?
How much do the tunnels cost?
Is a Swiss motorway vignette worth buying?
What catches first-time support crews out?
Those were exactly the questions I was searching for before we left and during the week.
This guide isn't intended to be the definitive answer—every recce, requirement and vehicle is different, and your plans will almost certainly change depending on how many days you have available and how your runners want to tackle the course.
Instead, this is a detailed guide based on exactly what we did, what worked well and, just as importantly, what I wish I'd known before setting off.
Note: We completed this trip in a campervan while friends camped separately with tents. Their experience was very different, particularly when it came to finding accommodation, so I can't dive too much into their experience of each site, but I can tell you where they stayed.
Planning Your UTMB Recce
Campervan or Tent?
One of the biggest advantages of travelling in a campervan was flexibility.
We deliberately didn't book a single overnight stop before arriving. We simply had a plan of where we'd like to finish each day and trusted we'd find somewhere suitable to park up and stay in the area. Thankfully, that approach worked perfectly. Every day we found somewhere to stay without too much difficulty. For clarity, we have onboard a 70 litre water tank, fridge, sink, gas hob, composting toilet and portable shower. We could have been self sufficient with less. The boys travelling with us in tents had a completely different experience. Many campsites were already full, meaning they needed to book well in advance or take a risk. If you're travelling during July, August or close to UTMB week, I'd strongly recommend reserving campsites as early as possible.
Our Itinerary
Day | Runner Stage | Support Crew Overnight Stop |
Arrival | n/a | Start - On the D1506 leaving Chamonix |
Day 1 | Chamonix - Les Contamines | Parking Notre-Dame de la Gorge |
Day 2 | Les Contamines - Courmayer | |
Day 3 | Courmayeur - Champex-Lac | |
Day 4 | Champex-Lac - Vallorcine | |
Day 5 | Vallercine - Chamonix | n/a |
Overnight Parking Rules
Can you sleep overnight in a campervan?
Throughout France, Italy and Switzerland you'll see plenty of campervans parked overnight.
The important distinction is between parking and camping.
Sleeping inside your vehicle is generally acceptable where overnight parking is permitted.
Setting up camp outside your vehicle isn't.
That means:
No chairs
No awnings
No BBQs
No tables
No washing lines
Essentially, park, sleep and leave.
During our trip there were plenty of people ignoring these rules, but we preferred not to risk receiving a fine or upsetting local residents. Interestingly, staying five or ten minutes outside the busiest towns often meant quieter nights and much better sleep.
Arrival in Chamonix (The Night Before)
Where We Stayed
D1506 Lay-by (Leaving Chamonix)
Our recce actually started the evening before the runners set off.
We'd originally planned to stay at Parking du Grépon, but when we arrived it was €25 for 24 hours. Considering it doesn't offer fresh water, waste disposal or any other campervan facilities, we didn't think it represented particularly good value. Plus, it was full!
Instead, we found one of the roadside lay-bys on the D1506 leaving Chamonix, where we spent the night.
Although it's on a busy road, traffic and parking availability quietened down later in the evening and it turned out to be a fairly good place to spend the night before the adventure began. There were a few loud vehicles at various points, but it was fine.
Pros
Free
Only a few minutes drive from Chamonix (10 minute walk)
Easy to arrive late
Plenty of other vans using the area
Ideal if Parking du Grépon is full
Cons
Road noise early in the evening
No facilities
Not as scenic as some later overnight stops
Alternative Option – Parking du Grépon
Parking du Grépon remains a popular option because it's within walking distance of Chamonix town centre.
However, as mentioned, it is €25 for 24 hours.
If being close to town is important, it may still suit you, but personally I'd save the money and stay on the D1506 for a night.
Last-Minute Supplies Before the Recce
Before leaving Chamonix the following morning, we stopped at the Carrefour supermarket, which proved to be one of the most useful stops of the entire trip.
Here we:
Filled our fresh water tank (W3W location for the actual tap and grey waste)
Emptied our grey waste
Bought food for the next few days
Picked up a few forgotten essentials
I'd recommend doing your main supermarket shop here, as Chamonix has by far the best selection of supermarkets, outdoor shops and services you'll find before leaving France.
Campervan Services
Just by the Carrefour you will find some services for a van.
Here we used:
Fresh water
Grey waste disposal
I think there is also chemical disposal (we use a composting toilet)
Day 1 – Chamonix to Les Contamines (40 mins)
Overnight parking - Notre-Dame de la Gorge Car Park
After leaving Chamonix, our first overnight stop was Parking Notre-Dame de la Gorge, just beyond Les Contamines.
For anyone completing a UTMB recce by campervan, this was a top place to stay. If we had more time, we would have explored it more.
The UTMB route passes directly through the car park before climbing towards Col du Bonhomme, making it an ideal place to start or finish this section of the recce.
Facilities
The car park includes:
Public toilets
Drinking water (we were told there is a tap, although we didn't need to use it ourselves)
Large parking area
Direct access to the UTMB route
The setting is beautiful, particularly in the evening once most day visitors have left, and it was one of the quieter overnight stops of the trip.
The boys stayed in a campsite called Camping le Pontet which was a 1 min drive or 10 minute walk from the campsite.
Les Contamines
Les Contamines itself is only a short drive from Cahmonix and is a sizeable village.
It's a good place to stock up on supplies, with:
A supermarket
Bakery
Cafés and restaurants
Outdoor shops
Fuel station
Top tip: If you are running low on fuel, like I was, fill up in St Gervais, there is no fuel station in Les Contamines.
Day 2 – Les Contamines to Courmayeur (1 hour in good traffic)
Driving to Courmayeur
While runners cross Col du Bonhomme on foot, anyone travelling by road will most probably need to drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel into Italy. Another route is available that avoids the tunnel, but this can turn a 1 hour journey into a 3 hour, mountainous journey littered with steep hills and hairpins.
Approximate one-way prices at the time of our visit were:
Vehicle | Approximate Cost |
Car | €50 |
Campervan (Ducato) | €72 or 92 return |
If you already know you'll be returning through the tunnel later in the week, it's worth buying a return ticket as it's significantly cheaper than purchasing two separate single crossings.
Top tip: Leave early in the day as you won't need to queue at the tunnel. Leave later, and you may be in traffic for 2-3 hours on the approach. I left Les Contamines at 7am and sailed through. I didn't need my passport, but I had it on hand in case. Payment is via card, no toll tags work here!
Parking in Courmayeur
Day time - Via delle Forges (but not on Wednesdays)
During the day I parked at Via delle Forges, close to the Sports Centre.
From here it's an easy walk into the town centre, where you'll find supermarkets, cafés, outdoor retailers and plenty of places to eat.
The nearby Sports Centre is also used during UTMB week, so it's a useful landmark if you're familiar with the course.
Top tip: An ice cream after a day on the trails at Crème et chocolat was the dream!
Overnight Parking – Val Veny
That evening we moved to Parking Val Veny, opposite Hobo Camping.
Parking becomes free after 7 pm, making it a popular overnight stop for campervans.
There's another pay-and-display till 7 pm car park around 100 metres further up the road if needed.
Pros
Quiet location
Beautiful mountain views
Plenty of parking
Close to the Val Veny walking trails
Things to Know
Several websites still suggest you can refill fresh water at Hobo Camping.
When we visited, this was no longer possible.
Staff confirmed that only paying guests can use their facilities, so make sure you arrive with enough fresh water.
The boys stayed at a campsite a 1 minute drive away. I don't know too much about it, but they seemed happy enough. The details of while can be found here - Camping Aiguille Noire | Val Veny, Courmayeur
Day 3 – Courmayeur to Champex-Lac (allow 2-2:30 hours)
Choosing Your Route into Switzerland
This is probably the biggest driving decision of the whole trip.
There are two realistic options.
Option 1 – Mont Blanc Tunnel (only sensible if you booked a return for Mt Blanc Tunnel)
The quickest route (not by much) is to return through the Mont Blanc Tunnel before crossing into Switzerland.
If you haven't purchased a Swiss motorway vignette, remember to set your sat nav to Avoid Motorways before entering the country. The fine for entering a Swiss motorway is 200 euros apparently. An e-vignette is around 40 euros and can be purchased online and can be activated within 10 minutes.
Option 2 – Via Aosta and the Great St Bernard Tunnel
This is the route I chose, and it was perfect because I was able to fill up the water tank 10 minutes outside of Courmayer without a diversion...... it was 1 min off the main road! The location for the specific motorhome refill tap is here.
Although the Great Saint Bernard tunnel that goes into Switzerland from Italy costs around €50, this route avoids having to drive back through the Mt Blanc Tunnel, and offers a completely different journey through the Italian Alps. The drive to Aosta is scenic in its own right, following the valley floor beneath some spectacular peaks before climbing towards the tunnel.
If you have more time and the weather is good, there's also the option of taking the Great St Bernard Pass instead of the tunnel. The pass is free and is renowned for its dramatic mountain scenery and hairpin bends, although I chose the tunnel to save time and my brakes.
Again, after crossing into Switzerland, it's important to remember that if you haven't bought a Swiss motorway vignette, you'll need to set your sat nav to 'Avoid Motorways' before continuing towards Champex-Lac.
Switzerland
Three things could have caught us out.
Firstly, not all UK mobile providers include Switzerland within their European roaming allowances. Check this. ID mobile charge £1.50 per MB! A £5 bolt on sorted that potential issue out.
Secondly, everything is noticeably more expensive than in France or Italy, particularly supermarkets, cafés and fuel.
Thirdly, they use the Swiss Franc. However, I think a lot of places in Champex-Lac accept paying in euros.
Overnight Parking – Champex-Lac
We stayed in the free 48-hour car park just before Hotel Belvédère, which proved to be an excellent overnight stop. There were no facilities, and other then the odd motorbike on the main road, it was quiet. It is also located where the Champex-Lac aid station is I beleive.
It's only a short walk into the village and there are breathtaking views of the lake.
Relais d'Arpette Campsite
The boys stayed at Relais d'Arpette.
It's worth knowing that it's a fairly steep walk uphill from Champex-Lac village (probably around 30 mins) although the course does head that way. Not the sort of walk you would want to do with some shopping, kit and tent.
The campsite offers food, although our friends found themselves paying around €28 each for the all-you-can-eat buffet. Not ideal if you are on a budget.
Food & Shopping
Champex-Lac has a couple of small convenience stores, perfect for topping up essentials, but it's not somewhere you'd want to rely on for a large supermarket shop.
Day 4 – Champex-Lac to Vallorcine (1 hour)
Vallorcine
During the day I parked near Vallorcine Station, where many campervans also seem to stay overnight. It's a convenient location with easy access to a few places to get a drink, and it has a railway station. However, IT DOES NOT HAVE A SHOP!
So, we decided go to the Super U in Argentière, a 15 minute drive, and go back to Vallercine after to spend the night at Camping du Montets.
Camping du Montets
This was probably the most comfortable overnight stop of the week. There are no advance bookings, so pitches are allocated on a first come, first served basis. When we arrived at 12:50, there was already a reasonable queue forming. Payment is by cash or bank transfer.
Facilities include:
Showers
Toilets
Water refill
Washing-up area
Campervan pitches
Separate tent field
Tumble drier
Sinks to hand wash laundry
We paid €24 for two people, which we thought was good value. Again, remember, there isn't a proper grocery shop in Vallorcine, so buy food before you arrive or by going elsewhere.
Top tip: A pizza van serves pizza in the evenings at the campsite.
The Final Stretch
Vallercine to Chamonix (30 minutes)
From Vallorcine, it's just a 30-minute drive back to Chamonix, bringing the journey full circle. After 5 days following the UTMB route through France, Italy and Switzerland, it's a surprisingly short drive that gives you time to reflect on everything you've experienced.
Whether you've been driving while friends tackled the trails, exploring the villages between stages or simply soaking up some of the most spectacular scenery in the Alps, you'll almost certainly leave with a much better understanding of what makes UTMB so special.
I hope this guide helps make planning your own recce a little easier. Every trip will be different, but if it saves you a few hours of research, helps you find a great overnight stop or avoids one or two common mistakes, then it's done its job.
Safe travels, enjoy the journey, and don't forget to look up from the sat nav every now and then—the roads are almost as memorable as the trails.
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